Dana Spicer® Drive Axles. RING GEAR NUT & BOLT KIT 1 552 508652 Includes items 20-21 20 Nut - Ring Gear 16 116 126216 21 Bolt. This time the three.308..308 Semiauto Rifles Revisited: DSA’s. We liked the feel of the Stoner without scope so much we couldn’t see installing one.

Free Games Download For Nokia X2 01 Mobile9. Rebuilding the 308/Mondial CV joints Ferrari 308 CV joint and Drive shaft Seal replacement By The Birdman Lame printer-friendly layout A special thanks to for this tutorial. He came over and walked me through it step by step so I know it was done right. And I’m just writing it up and taking all the credit.:-) If you are not capable of doing this job yourself, don't fret.

Background A 308 has two drive shafts, (some call them “half-shafts”) that connect the differential to the rear wheels. Each drive shaft has two CV (constant velocity) joints that transfer the torque to the wheel but allow the drive shaft to flex slightly. This allows the suspension to move up and down on one end of the drive shaft while the other end is bolted straight into the transaxle. These are slightly different than a universal joint (“U joint”) because in addition to allowing the shaft to bend at the joint, they also allow a bit of in and out (telescoping) movement. There are two reasons you might remove and service a drive shaft assembly: 1. One or more of the rubber boots on the CV joints has torn and the grease is leaking out.

(This is bad! If the boot tears, the CV joint will fling all its grease on your engine and make a mess.

It will also ruin the joint because it will run dry of lubricant.) 2. The drive shaft seal is leaking. This is the seal at the interface between the drive shaft and the transaxle. When this seal starts to leak, transmission oil sneaks out around it and gets flung by the rotating drive shaft on your engine and suspension. You are not only losing transaxle oil but also making a mess of your engine. The symptoms are easy to see: you have a “ring” of oil on your engine bay in a radius around the inner CV joint. A lot of times this looks like an oil leak from the cam cover dripping down on the engine below, but look carefully and you will see oil not just below but on the exhaust and back of the engine bay perfectly lined up with the inner CV joint.

That’s where it gets thrown from. Selmer Reference 54 Tenor Serial Numbers. This is a straightforward repair that just about anyone can handle. It’s a hell of a lot easier with a lift so you can get under the car easily, but it can be done on jack stands too. This procedure is going to outline the left hand side (drivers side in the USA) drive shaft and seal.

This is the more difficult one. Hex To Ascii Conversion Program In Embedded C. I’ll give a few tips on the passenger side, which is slightly different when it comes to the seal. PART ONE: GET THE DRIVE SHAFT OUT 1. Remove the rear wheel and liner to you can gain access to the drive shaft. You do not need to remove the brakes, caliper or suspension in any way! Leave the car in neutral so you can rotate the rear wheels and access the drive shaft flange nuts easily.

There are six Allen head bolts holding the drive shaft to the hub flange and six more holding the other end to the transaxle flange. You need to get all 12 of these bolts out. This is the hardest part of this whole procedure because they are tight and it’s easy to strip the Allen head. The first thing to do is soak all the bolts and nuts in PB Blaster. (If you don’t have PB Blaster, go to NAPA and get some. It’s way better than WD-40.) Then go inside and have a beer. Actually several, because you are done for the day.

The next morning, soak them again and go inside and eat breakfast. Beer optional. I want you to soak those bad boys 2-3 times over 24 hours before you even think about trying to crack them loose. Trust me on this part. If you rush it, you will strip one and then you will be swearing like a truck driver trying to cut the nuts off with a dremel. And let me tell you they are seriously hard steel and that sucks!

Once the nuts and bolt heads have soaked for 24 hours, you are going to crack them loose with a big long breaker bar, an 8mm allen socket and whichever extension allows you to reach those bolts. There are a couple things to keep in mind here. Those buggers are tight. Make sure you get the allen socket seated all the way in the bolt and hold it in there tightly while you crack it loose with the breaker bar. Keep the drive shaft from turning by putting a screwdriver into the slots of the brake rotor next to the brake caliper. The screwdriver will go above or below the brake caliper depending on whether you are loosening the bolts on the inner or outer hub.